Mindful travel guide: Lisbon

Lisbon is one of my favourite cities in Europe. Besides having incredible weather, it’s got some of the best food I’ve had in my life and so many gorgeous streets and neighbourhoods to explore. With Portugal’s strong garment and shoe-making industries, there are also plenty of independent, local brands popping up. I visited for a long weekend in May 2024, and these were some of the highlights from my trip.

Food and drink

The Food Temple

I’m not even exaggerating when I say this was one of the best meals of my life. I still think about it and have tried to recreate it at home several times. This gorgeous restaurant is tucked away down a back street in Alfama and spills out onto the street, creating a relaxed community atmosphere. The menu is 100% vegan and designed to be shared. My personal highlight was the arancini with roasted red peppers, fennel and cashew cream – honestly one of the best things I’ve ever tasted.

Hygge Kaffe Baixa

This centrally located café was ideal for breakfast before our day trip to Sintra. We both had vegan mini pancakes which were incredibly indulgent and delicious. The café itself was also lovely and spacious, flooded with natural light and beautifully designed. Perhaps a bit touristy, given the central location, but great value for money.

Café de Garagem

A colleague told about this spot and I’m glad I wrote it down, because it’s not the kind of place you’d stumble across. I’m hesitant to use the word ‘hidden’ to describe bars, but this one kind of fits the description. To reach it, you have to go down a fairly quiet street and then downstairs beneath a small theatre, but once inside, you’re treated to one of the loveliest spots with one of the best views of the city. It’s got a very homey feel with lots of armchairs and fairy lights. We went during the evening, but it would be pretty spectacular during the day as well.

Coyo Taco

If you like tacos, then you’ll like this place. They had both veg and meat options, and the service was quick – just what we needed after walking for hours. We went to the one in Príncipe Real and the service was just as great as the food. The drinks list is great too, with a range or margaritas and classic Mexican drinks to choose from.

Menina e Moça bookstore bar

I visited this place on my first trip to Lisbon in 2019 and it has stuck with me. Located along the famous pink street, this bookshop-by-day, bar-by-night venue was full of regular locals and tourists alike when I went. There was a live jazz band playing, surrounded by bookshelves, and it felt like going to a gig in someone’s lounge room.

doVigário Pub and Records

This tapas restaurant in the Alfama neighbourhood offers both vegan and non-vegan tapas, and the value for money is amazing. We ordered the tapas tasting menu for 26 euros for two people, and it was almost too much food to fit on the table. The restaurant also doubles as a record store and has a fun, laid back atmosphere that we loved.

Villa Craft Beer and Bread (Sintra)

If you’re doing a day trip to Sintra, you’ll probably be overwhelmed by all the restaurants and cafés to choose from, so let me make it easy for you. Villa Craft Beer and Bread shares its premises with a couple of other foodie destinations, including a wine bar and pizza restaurant, and is down a quiet street behind the National Palace of Sintra. They’ve got terrace seating out the front, or you can sit inside by the window and enjoy beautiful views like we did.

Shopping

Mercado de Santa Clara / Feira da Ladra

This iconic flea market dates back to 1272 and runs every Tuesday and Saturday. We were lucky enough to be in town on a Tuesday, so we visited in the morning and were amazed at not only the size of the market but also the range of bric-a-brac, antiques, handmade crafts and art for sale. We bought a screen-printed artwork from a local artist called João Fidalgo and were tempted by a lot of beautiful ceramics. We also looked in the Mercado de Santa Clara, an indoor market open Monday to Friday, where we had some delicious vegan empanadas and homemade iced tea before browsing around all the vendors selling handmade jewellery, art, clothes and pottery.

Nae Vegan Shoes

I’ve known about this Portuguese brand for a while, so I was keen to visit their store while in Lisbon. The shop is just across the road from the Largo Trindade Coelho public square, which also had a makers’ market on that day. As for the shoes, the vegan leather looked and felt like the real thing, and their range of shoes for men and women was comprehensive despite the shop being on the smaller side. I’d recommend having a look if you’re in the market for some high-quality, sustainable vegan shoes.

Mess Vntg

I gladly stumbled on this vintage store while we were exploring in the Príncipe Real part of the city. A sucker for any vintage boutique, I had to go in, and I wasn’t disappointed. The little boutique had so many gorgeous items from silk shirts and summer dresses to sunglasses and bucket hats. I didn’t buy anything on this occasion, but I did try on a few things and was definitely tempted.

EmbaiXada

Set within a 19th-century palace, this shopping centre is a hub for local designers and artists and unlike any other shopping centre I’ve seen. The neo-Moorish architecture and Art Nouveau details are stunning, with each grand room housing a different local brand. Some of my favourite discoveries were Fairly Normal and Isto., two menswear brands making high-quality everyday clothes and prioritising local production and sustainable materials.

Things to do and see

Botanical Garden of Lisbon

I always love visiting botanical gardens when I travel to a new city, and Lisbon’s provided a cool, calm oasis amongst the stone and brick of the city streets. Set on a hillside in the Príncipe Real neighbourhood, the garden invites you to meander down the hill and take respite from the sun beneath its subtropical trees and exotic plants. Open since 1878, the gardens cover 10 acres and are home to 10,000 plants, but it’s not super high on the tourist list, so it’s usually pretty quiet – adding to its tranquillity. It cost us 5 euros each to enter.

Day trip to Sintra and National Palace of Pena

In my opinion, a trip to Lisbon isn’t complete without a day trip to Sintra. About an hour away by train, this municipality is set against lush hills with incredible views towards the sea. Formerly a summer retreat for Portuguese royalty, Sintra is home to several opulent palaces and villas, stunning gardens, and historical sites. It’s also got a charming town centre with restaurants, cafés, shops and street markets.

There are lots of companies running day trips and tours to Sintra, but we chose to save money and go at our own pace. We got the train from Lisbon and walked around the town before walking/hiking up to the Palace of Pena (wear good shoes for this). We decided to buy tickets to enter the palace, which is filled with extravagant interiors and unique architecture. It was pretty busy, as a lot of tour groups come to the palace, but well worth it. Often overlooked by the big groups, the gardens are also beautiful and peaceful (and all down-hill from the palace). I also visited the Quinta da Regaleira, a villa with stunning landscaped gardens, back in 2019 and loved it. Pack water and snacks for the day because it's virtually impossible to avoid walking up steep hills and steps.

Explore Alfama

We stayed in an Airbnb in the Alfama neighbourhood, which is one of the oldest and most characterful in the city. Almost entirely pedestrian, the narrow, cobbled streets of Alfama are sleepy during the day and vibrant at night, when bars and cafés spill out onto the streets. You could easily get lost exploring these maze-like streets, but that’s part of the fun.

Watch the sunset from Esplanada da Graça

It’s worth walking up the hill to catch the sunset at Esplanada da Graça. You can sit along the wall or get a table at the outdoor bar, either way, the views are gorgeous. It was the perfect way to end a day of walking around and visually retrace our steps across the city.

Stay tuned for more travel guides coming soon!